The Secret Ingredient to Clear Skin
Azelaic Acid, an underrated skincare powerhouse.
Azelaic acid kills acne bacteria and prevents dark spots.
Skincare for Acne & Hyperpigmentation
Azelaic acid is one of the most underrated yet powerful ingredients in skincare. If your routine has been missing an ingredient that prevents acne while fading post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, azelaic acid may be exactly what your skin needs.
More Effective Acne Treatments for Skin of Color
Science Break: What Is Azelaic Acid?
Azelaic acid is a naturally occurring organic compound derived from Malassezia furfur, a yeast found on the skin. It works by:
Killing acne-causing bacteria
Reducing inflammation
Inhibiting tyrosinase, a key enzyme involved in melanin production
This dual action allows azelaic acid to prevent breakouts while gradually fading dark spots caused by acne or inflammation.
What Does the Research Say?
Clinical studies strongly support azelaic acid’s effectiveness in skin of color:
A multicenter, vehicle-controlled randomized trial (n=52) showed that 24 weeks of azelaic acid 20% cream significantly improved facial hyperpigmentation in patients with Fitzpatrick skin types IV–VI.
A separate 24-week randomized trial (n=65) found that azelaic acid 20% was as effective as hydroquinone 4%, the traditional gold standard for skin lightening, when used alone or in combination with glycolic acid.
These findings confirm that azelaic acid at 20% concentration can rival hydroquinone in treating hyperpigmentation — without the safety concerns.
Burns RL, Prevost-Blank PL, Lawry MA, et al. Glycolic acid peels for postinflammatory hyperpigmentation in Black patients. Dermatol Surg. 1997;23:171.
Azelaic Acid Works for Skin of Color.
Azelaic acid should be applied to the entire face, not used as a spot treatment. It selectively targets excess melanin produced after inflammation, not your natural skin tone.
This is not a bleaching agent. It will not lighten your natural skin tone.
At DoctorGlory, we celebrate melanin. Our goal is healthy, even skin tone — not skin lightening.
Safe, Effective & Pregnancy-Safe
Azelaic acid is one of the few acne and hyperpigmentation treatments considered safe during pregnancy, making it an excellent option for patients who need gentle yet effective care.
Prescription vs Over-the-Counter Azelaic Acid
Most clinical research supports 15–20% azelaic acid, which is prescription-only.
Prescription formulations are available through dermatologists, primary care physicians, or reputable virtual dermatology platforms.
Over-the-counter formulas typically contain 10% azelaic acid, but lack robust clinical data proving equivalent effectiveness.
Side Effects
About 1–5% of users experience mild burning or stinging
In most cases, this sensation resolves within 1–2 weeks of consistent use
Why I Recommend Azelaic Acid
I recommend azelaic acid because of its safety profile and dual benefits: prevent acne fade dark spots.
It is one of the most versatile, evidence-based ingredients available in modern skincare.
Written by Doctor Glory Okugo, MD
Board-Certified Emergency Medicine Physician
Learn more about DoctorGlory